Jun232011

Puppy Socialization and Vaccinations

Early socialization for puppies, during which they learn to play with other puppies, is vital. Our Puppy Play & Train class is the perfect place to start. However, many puppy owners keep their puppies away from training classes until they are fully vaccinated and the early socialization period has passed. See what the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has to say on this topic:

“The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing overstimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.

Read full position paper…

Jun092011

Socialize That Puppy Now!

If you have a new puppy the clock is ticking!  You have until puppy is 14-16 weeks old before the socialization window closes, and here’s what your puppy should be doing:

  • MEETING LOTS OF PEOPLE: Children, skateboarders, older people; people in wheel chairs & walkers or on crutches; people with big hair or are loud or both.
  • MEETING HEALTHY & FRIENDLY DOGS & PUPPIES: who are vaccinated, friendly and appropriate. Enroll in a well-run puppy class and schedule play sessions with your friend’s & their puppies.  (Note: not all adult dogs like puppies…)
  • HAVING FUN with NEW EXPERIENCES: Go places & get treats.  The vet’s office, the groomer, the post office, coffee shops (outside).
  • HOSTING A PUPPY PARTY:  Invite your friends over to meet the puppy.  Bring umbrellas, balloons, wigs, outdated 1980′s clothes. Just be sure puppy is relaxed and having fun.
  • AVOIDING SCARY SITUATIONS.  Never force puppy into uncomfortable situations.  Let her meet new experiences at her own speed.
  • TRAINING USING POSITIVE METHODS.  Puppy should be learning SIT/DOWN/STAY and COME HERE.  Teach puppy to follow you around the house–this will lead to nice leash walking. Have him WAIT for food and to go outside.
Jun022011

Is Ashland unfriendly to dogs?

Check out this newspaper article on the newly formed group Ashland Loves Dogs:

A tourist traveling with a pet who does a Google search with the terms “dog friendly” and “Ashland” will pull up a dire warning.

The top search result lists the Dogfriendly.com website, which says, “WARNING: Ashland Oregon is one of the least dog-friendly towns on the West Coast.” The site says that an owner whose dog sets foot inside an Ashland park can be hit with a hefty fine. It says most parks are off-limits, and the one off-leash dog park is on the outskirts of town.

“Best to just keep on driving on I-5,” Dogfriendly.com concludes.

Members of the recently formed group Ashland Loves Dogs want to counter that message by pointing out Ashland’s dog-friendly features, while also working to allow canine access to more places around town.

Read full article…

You can also find us on Facebook.

May092011

Teaching Doggie Impulse Control

Does it seem like your dog has ADD? Is it hard to hold his attention or get him to STAY put for even a few seconds? Does he lunge, bark, jump, sniff and then pee all with in two seconds? Well, there are several things you can do to get your life back:

  1. Intense daily exercise is a requirement for overly enthusiastic dogs. One option is doggie daycare 2 or 3 times a week to help burn off excess energy and have a relaxed dog for a day. Well run dog parks are another option. Or, schedule playtime with other like minded furry friends.
  2. Teach be a couch potato. Teach your pup to relax inside. Go outdoors for excitement and high energy games, and encourage quiet activities inside. This will classically condition your dog to be relaxed indoors.
  3. Prevention is best: Successful training relies on not letting your dog get into trouble when you can’t watch her. Make full use of: Baby gates, exercise pens, crates and leashes! Leash your puppy to you or to the couch, put her in the bathroom behind a baby gate when necessary and crate her when you are gone…
  4. Leave-It teaches impulse control. Tether dog to heavy piece of furniture and put a treat or bone or toy out of reach. Wait for him to relax and look away and tell him,”Good Leave-it.” Progress to a moving leave-it and walking past leave-its.
  5. WAIT for everything! My dog Simon has learned it takes me forever to leave the house so he no longer gets excited until we actually walk out the door. Leash up your dog & tether him if you need to and then have him wait for you to get ready. Another great place to wait is inside the car. Open the car door and have Fido wait for 30 seconds before you say, “OK!”
Apr122011

Fido has Spring Fever

Is your dog suddenly ignoring you when you’re outside and has several extra doses of energy? Did he used to come when called and walk OK on leash? Well, your pup just might have Spring Fever and here are the symptoms:

  • Suddenly extra exuberant with leash pulling and jumping
  • Can no longer listen or settle down
  • Forgot her name
  • Can’t stop sniffing when outside

Here are a few things you can do:

  1. Give your dog an extra 20 minutes on walks & play sessions to burn off the extra energy.
  2. Get back to basics with training, but keep your training sessions short & fun and under 3-5 minutes for optimal learning.
  3. Practice calling your dog using to-die-for fabulous treats like steak or chicken. Go outside and practice in your yard. Wait for dog to sniff while you sneak away. Now call your dog! The second he gets to you reward like crazy for 15 seconds!
  4. Teach your dog a new game like Find-It or Frisbee or the Sit-Stay-OK game to help her focus.
  5. Play the Sit-Stay-OK–game: First, have dog Sit-Stay then slowly move around the room or yard. When you’re both ready, say in a high pitched voice: “OK!” and run. Let the dog chase you as his reward. Start out with 5 sec stays and work your way up to 30 seconds or more…

And, if you’re patient–this too shall pass just like Easter and passover…

Mar162011

Stop Counter Surfing!

Have you ever come home to pot roast packaging decorating your kitchen floor? Or sugar or cereal strewn about?

Believe it or not, there is help, so start by asking yourself these questions:

  • Is your dog bored? Is he using your kitchen as a personal entertainment center? Try teaching him a new skill like Frisbee to burn off excess energy.
  • Have you puppy proofed your kitchen? This means putting all food away when you’re not there to supervise. You could also clean your counters with fresh lemon which will taste bitter to the dog but make your kitchen smell great.
  • Does your kitchen have a boundary? This is an invisible line that your dog is not allowed to cross without permission: it keeps pups safe and out of trouble. You can also use a baby gate to block Bowser out of your kitchen.
  • Does Fido have food toys? Try keeping him busy with Kongs and Twist & Treats while you’re in the kitchen cooking or when you have company.
  • Does Your Dog Know a Super Solid Leave-It? It can work wonders for counter surfers. Set up training sessions and reward dog for ignoring food on counter and progress to dropped food on the floor. Teach dog that she can only have dropped items when invited. Practice lots of different training scenarios including food on table & on coffee table and anywhere else you can think of until she’s super solid.

NOTE: Set your dog up for success and don’t let her fail. Shoot for a 80% success rate before making training harder and don’t forget to reward her for being good!

Feb082011

Teach Your Dog to Target!

Use clicker training to teach your dog to touch or follow your finger. It’s called target training and it’ll help you deal with leash pulling, barking and many other challenges. Using either a clicker or a clucking sound that you make with your tongue, click each time dog touches the target. Start by teaching him to touch his nose to your pointing finger. Soon, you’ll be able to ask him to look at, touch, or follow your finger. This exercise will help Fido focus on the target instead of obsessing on pulling on leash, barking at the kitty, or even jumping on visitors. Here’s the training:

  • Get a fist full of tiny soft treats cut up and ready to deliver. Put them in your closed fist.
  • Now, keep hand in a fist, but point your pointing finger. Hold the tip of finger in front of dog’s nose so she’ll be tempted to sniff it. When she does, click and treat OR make a clucking sound with your tongue and offer a treat.
  • Do this several times. Then, begin to move your finger around and up and down, pausing to let her touch it each time.
  • Once she “gets” it, you can use this new trick to teach her to:
    • walk nicely or heel when out on walks.
    • stay in one place at home instead of jumping.
    • focus on your finger instead of barking at other dogs.
    • teach your dog a trick like jump through a hula hoop.
Jan282011

Old Dogs, New Tricks

A couple of weeks ago, I was interviewed for The Sneak Preview which came out last week.

Colleen Shanahan “Old Dogs, New Tricks” written by Rosey Rosenberg

“Men are trainable too,” dog trainer Colleen Shanahan happened to mention before starting a session with a 10-year-old barking fiend named Shaman, a 35 pound American Eskimo and purebred lover.

“Oh,” I replied, my interest piqued. For the sake of the column, I had Colleen over to demonstrate her positive “clicker training” approach. Her Ashland-based business is called DogGoneFun (www.doggonefun.biz)

“It’s true,” she replied, with her straight face cracking into a freckly smile. “But with men it just takes longer.”

“Okay,” I said, “I’ll bite. Any examples?”

In fact, Colleen came prepared with a great example, along with her sweet husband’s approval to share it. Like Shaman, who barks uncontrollably when someone comes to the door, husband Allen had his own, tsk-tsk, bad habit. He would leave his footwear “all over the house.” And it drove Colleen crazy.

Hence, the goal of the training: “For Allan to leave his shoes within only one small area.”

The premise: “Like dogs, most humans respond better to acknowledgment and attention than they do to aversives, like, say “persistent nagging.”

(At this point in the telling, Shaman’s “Mom,” my partner, perked up her ears and leaned in close to glean the secrets of “man training.” Frankly, I began to squirm.)

At the start, with Allan, Colleen relied on the operant conditioning principle of “shaping behaviors” or “successive approximations,” catching and immediately rewarding him when he would kick off his shoes anywhere even close to the target. Over time, she would limit the rewards to when he came progressively closer.

“I’d say, ‘Hey, thank you, Allen. I really appreciate your putting your shoes away,’ said Colleen. “Or I’d make a joke of it and say, ‘Good boy, good boy Allen, that’s good putting your shoes away.’” On the other hand, when he messed up, she would do her best to ignore it.

“After a while, it worked,” said Colleen. “I rarely find his shoes in the middle of the room.”

“How long a while?” my partner wondered aloud.

“It took a good year.”

“Damn,” said my partner.

“It doesn’t have to be that long,” Colleen reassures. “I think he would have been trained faster, if I’d been more consistent.” (She didn’t have to add, “Old dogs, new tricks.)

Colleen, 48, who’s been training dogs professionally since 1996 and for the past five years in Ashland, uses the clicker-training method, a variant of operant conditioning that’s been a staple for zoo keepers and marine mammal trainers for years. It relies first on pairing a clicking sound (from a toy clicker) with an almost-immediate reward to let the animal know you like what she is doing. The click, says Colleen, is like taking a snapshot of the exact behavior you want from the animal.

“We call it the microwave cooking of dog training, but it not only speeds training, it makes it fun,” said Colleen. “It’s simple. Like people, dogs repeat behaviors that are rewarding and avoid those that aren’t. So, as a trainer—of dogs or husbands—you reward what you like and try to ignore what you don’t like.”

So what, we asked Colleen, would she do to help stop Shaman from throwing those barking fits and racing to the door every time someone knocks or rings the bell? As you can imagine, large parties, unless everyone comes at the same exact time, can trigger a painful cacophony.

Colleen began by pairing clicks with the hand-feeding of fingernail-size bits of Shaman’s to-die-for treat, a lamb sausage roll, along with a non-stop flow of praise. Once he had the concept, she began her first training session by knocking lightly on the outside of a bathroom door, rewarding with a click and food, and a “Good Dog!” for his silence; if he barked—and he barked almost every time at the start—she removed her attention, slipping behind the bathroom door.

While we were all having loads of fun watching Shaman train Colleen to repeatedly shut herself in the bathroom, it was clear that barking is not a behavior you can expect to extinguish overnight. Not only is Shaman’s breed known to be “barky,” said Colleen—he’s hardwired to bark—but for dogs, barking is its own reward.” (That could well explain why baseball managers will scream at umpires even when there’s no hope of getting a call changed; it must just feel good.)

For the next several 10-minute sessions, Colleen tried knocking on the inside of the front door, first softly and then more loudly, until Shaman responded without barking. I couldn’t gauge the degree of Shaman’s motivation, but I can imagine that Colleen was highly motivated: each time he barked, she would let herself outside into the 24-degree air. (I thought I caught Shaman smiling at that a few times.)

For the second stage of the afternoon training,” Colleen worked with us to clicker-train Shaman to go to his doggy bed, “lie down” and “stay” following a door knock. Suffice it to say, Shaman did better than we did.

A native of Los Angeles, Colleen had been a pre-school teacher in Seattle when she switched careers, earning a certificate in dog training. The catalyst was an 8-year-old dachshund named Maddy whom Colleen rescued from a bad situation. “Her owner died and the surviving human stuck Maddy and another dachshund in a shed with a gigantic bag of Kibbles.” When the dogs were discovered, the other dog was “really fat,” and Maddy was “really skinny.” Maddy had never even been house-trained.

In Ashland, Colleen teaches classes as well as training dogs in their homes. And while she doesn’t advertise it, she has trained a child or two along the way.

“I was working outside with this family’s two dogs, and their hyperactive child kept climbing up the rock retaining wall, and they kept having to tell him to come down.” Getting a bag of M&Ms from the parents, and using the same techniques, she quickly had him trained to stay on the grass.

“Kids are like dogs,” said Colleen. “They have that same raw energy. In pre-school and kindergarten, you’ll see the same pack mentality and mischievousness. The same learning theory applies.”

To hone her dog training skills, Colleen heads for “fowl territory,” for a week-long “chicken camp” founded by a woman who studied under B.F. Skinner, the father of operant conditioning.

Chickens are the perfect practice subjects, says Colleen. Not only do their quick movements require trainers to perfect their click-reward timing, but compared to dogs or husbands, they are remarkably quick learners. “In just seconds or minutes, chickens can learn a behavior that would take a dog minutes or hours.” If you want to see Colleen train a chicken on Youtube.com, include “Buffy the Chicken,” “training” and “piano” in your search.

After Colleen had worked for an hour and a half or so with Shaman—and with us—it was apparent that the initial training had turned out pretty well. At least in his trial runs, Shaman was barking far less than before. As for me, I don’t know what Colleen may have shared with my partner, but since then I’ve been bringing my dirty socks to the laundry room consistently. On all fours and in my teeth.

You can reach Colleen at doggonefun@gmail.com or 541-601-7601

 

Jan062011

Clicker Training Helps Challenging Dogs… & cats too!

I continue to be amazed at the power of clicker training. Whether it’s your dog, cat, mouse or spouse: clicker training speeds up training & makes it fun! Here are a few examples from this year so far:

  • Trixie the terrified terrier refused to use the dog door–but we taught her to follow a target stick and then we got her to follow the target through the dog door. She did this all with a wagging tail: Now, no more peeing in the house!
  • Bowser the barker wouldn’t stop barking barking barking at the front door. So we used clicker training to train him to go to his bed and lie down quietly when someone comes knocking at the door.
  • Lilly the leash puller pulled and pulled on her leash and we taught her to heel using clicks & rewards. With a little help from a “NO-PULL HARNESS” now she’s a breeze to walk…
  • Kelly the Kamikaze Kitten just had too much energy to burn. So we taught her some games to burn off energy and manners to keep her off the counter and now she’s a livable companion.

These are just a few examples of how I’ve used clicker training to help with challenging dog & cat issues. The clicker is quite the fad right now, but the first clicker trainer was actually B.F. Skinner –the father of operant conditioning– who also discovered if you pair a reward with a sound you get much quicker training results. In the 1940′s he and his students worked for the US Government during WWII to develop the worlds first smart bomb using trained pigeons…

Dec142010

Puppy Gone Wild!

CHEWING, NIPPING, JUMPING, CHASING –oh my!

I’m training a high energy but adorable 9 month old puppy named Sprocket who nips, chews, digs, barks, chases, pulls on leash… on and on and as I write this he’s starting to to chew on my carpet!  It’s a good thing he’s so cute…

WHAT’S A DOG TRAINER/OWNER TO DO?

Here are a few things:

MANAGE THE PUPPY so he can’t get into trouble.  I’ve set up a Doggie Den in my kitchen with blankets, kennel and lots of chew and food toys for him to chew on.  He is on a leash or tether when he’s out of the kitchen and even on a retractable leash in the yard because he digs and barks at a moment’ notice!

FREEDOM IS HIS BEST REWARD. When Sprocket arrived, he has zero freedom; meaning he is on leash or in his “doggie den”.  Then, as I begin to trust him, I give him select moments of freedom where he is supervised.  I do this after he’s exercised and good and tired.  His toys and chews are scattered around so he can be interrupted when he chews or jumps or barks and redirected.

MAKE A LIST OF WHAT HE LIKES and use those as rewards.  He likes boxes, KONGS, stuffed toys, towels and blankets, kibble, wet dog food, cheese, sliced turkey and most importantly FREEDOM and ATTENTION. I reward him constantly when he’s doing the right thing…

GET PLENTY OF EXERCISE.  He is getting a variety of exercise outlets each day.  A morning run on a retractable 26′ leash (because he can’t be off leash…) Several sessions of fetch, a mid-day hike, and an evening brisk walk, and one pre-bedtime session of fetch.

TEACH HIM TO RELAX. Between exercise and training sessions, the puppy is learning to relax with his legal chew toys. When he whines, what do I do?  Ignore him!  When he settles down I tell him “Thank you” & give him attention.  Also, he enjoys massages and this helps him unwind too…

Sprocket Learning to Relax

The box Sprocket is chewing was given to him as a “legal chew toy”.